Dudh Sagar Falls Trek, Karnataka - Goa

The ever-persistent chirping sound of crickets, the lazy croaking of the frogs, the early rising birds on the look-out for food and the steady sound of flowing water streams. It is not every day you wake up to such an assorted collection of sounds. I unzip the opening of the tent and calmly crawl my way out, to avoid waking the others. The sea of green and the milky water stream greet my eyes... and my senses. How I wish I could get a hot cuppa coffee now. Just as I try to evade thoughts of greed from my head my attention is diverted to a troop of monkeys who are making their way towards our camp. They look for food for themselves and their little ones. While the elders are busy raiding all the plastic covers and trash left behind by some mindless tourists, the young ones entertain themselves by flinging from one tree to another and playing rat-and-mouse game. Once the elders are satisfied there are no more food to be hoarded, the troop continue to their next destination.

Just as I begin to convince myself that I’m indeed in heaven, along chugs a 126 tonne, 4000 hp turbocharged, V16 cylinder mean machine to shatter the morning calm. This WDG4 diesel-electric engineering marvel with a top speed of 120kmph pours cold water (or must I say hot steam) on my morning musings. A total of 5 WDG4 engines are required to take the nearly 100-odd goods bogies through Braganza Ghat section. The blaring noise and the heat generated from the train passing barely couple of meters from our tents hardly woke anyone. This could be attributed to fact that most of the troop members were by now immune to the noise by now. The extensive physical activity of walking on the uneven surface of the Railway line was another cause for this lethargy.

My mind couldn't but wander to the previous day. But after much dilly-dallying there were 9 of us who set off from Bangalore to a larger-than-life image of the majestic Dudh Sagar Falls. Timing, logistics, planning and execution for this trip were crucial and thankfully for us, it was spot-on. Train booking at the eleventh hour, buying an extra tent, buying and distributing ready-to-cook MTR packets, eatables and water bottles were all planned and executed exactly as planned. After getting off Rani Chennamma at Hubli Junction we first booked tickets to Castle Rock station in the Unreserved compartment. With one more hour before we can catch our next train (Chennai-Vasco) we had a sumptuous breakfast at the Railway canteen. As expected we made an experience out of travelling in a General compartment after all these years - for couple of them it was their virgin train journey!

After getting down at Castle Rock Station we re-packed our bags by distributing the MTR Read-to-cooks, so that the weight each of us carried was not skewed. After a customary photo at the station we started off along the tracks on our 14km long trek. This was our first Railway trek and it posed its own little challenges. Now even though the surface is not uphill, it can still be a minor inconvenience considering all the gravel and of course human waste. It takes a a while to get used to walking on the planks especially since you have to take short steps all the while avoiding gravel and human waste. Initially you forget to watch the landscapes as you are busy watching the track, but as you make progress the visuals on offer are too hard to resist. Your feet start to strike the right rhythm and your eyes start to wander. The thick vegetation mostly covers the views that Braganza Ghat has to offer. But when it reveals itself, it’s a sight to behold. Even the 9 year old lion-heart in our group takes a minute or two appreciating nature, before he gets going leaving the others behind.

And then there are the tunnels. One after the other and one bigger and darker than the other, with the longest being half a kilometer. And if you get caught in a tunnel with the train passing, that’s an experience of a lifetime. Not only is it a good photo-op but also a hair-raising experience - literally. The heat and noise generated by the engines is so high, it can send shivers down your spine. By the time the train passes you, you would have turned two shades darker and suffer from momentary deafness.
After a lot walking which included a long haul at a mini waterfall, we finally reached the halfway mark - Caranzol Station. Always a group to start a conversation with the locals, we found out from the station master that there would be a Goods train arriving anytime now and heading towards Dudhsagar. The good station master advised us to take the goods train to Dudhsagar and spend some quality time at the Falls rather than walking on the tracks. Apparently they find nothing amusing about walking on the tracks. After a quick group huddle we decided to take the goods train after all, which later turned out as a blessing in disguise. Within no time the goods train arrived at Caranzol and with the station master having a word with the Guard in the train, we bundled ourselves into the Guard's compartment. And thus started the group's first Goods train ride of our lives. With no ticket counters at any of these stations, we got ourselves a free ride to Dudhsagar after cleverly wriggling out of paying the Guard. The waterfalls is another 1km walk from the station. As always, even before we could see the falls, we could hear it. And this always heightens the excitement. We made a dash to the final stretch and Voila! Nothing much has changed about Dudhsagar in the last 18 years since I last saw it in a school trip. Since it wasn't monsoons yet, there wasn't much water - but just enough to have a great time at the base of the falls.

The walk to the base of the falls is very challenging. The rough and uneven terrain can squeeze every ounce of your strength. But the result is much more rewarding that the effort put-in. The view from the base of the Falls is wholly different sight. It looks majestic to say the least. Even the little oasis formed at the point where the water finally reaches ground zero looks straight out of a movie scene. No sooner than we set our first tent, did a forest official come and informed us that we cannot camp here for the night as there will be an inspection by some senior officials. Disappointed by this we had to go back up to the railway track where there is a provision to camp for the night. After the demanding climb back, we immediately set up our tents there and started a campfire and cooked our MTRs. And then one by one crawled into our respective tents and sleeping bags for a good night's sleep.

I was woken out of my reverie by a second troop of monkeys who came looking for food. This batch was much more daring and adventurous than the earlier troop. By this time everyone was up and we had a hard time keeping the monkeys away from getting to our belongings. But they too eventually left and we cooked some soup packets for breakfast. We then lazed around all morning and headed back to Dudhsagar station around noon. And then another first in our lives. After much pleading with the drivers we got a once in a lifetime opportunity to ride in a WDG4 diesel electric engine. The train took us till Castle Rock after which we took another goods train to Londa in the Guard's room.

With time to kill we filled our stomachs with Vada Pavs and hearts with talks that ranged a variety of topics. With friends like these there's never a dull moment. By the time Rani Chennama rolled out of Londa we were already starting to dread the hectic life of Bangalore - the only comforting factor being that we will be re-united with our loved ones. Thank God for such little happiness....

Getting-there: From Bangalore, trains are the best option. Hubli or Londa are the major stations near to Braganza Ghat Section. If you wish to trek, Castle Rock is where you start. It’s a 14 km trek to Dudhsagar.

Must-Do: Railway Trekking is fun and different. Get to the base of the falls if there isn't much water. Camp near the falls.

Must-Don't: Littering and troubling the monkeys (remember we are intruding their territory)

Other Attractions - Ancient Thambi Surla Temple and Tambi Surla Falls (From Dudhsagar go to Kullem and then to Mullem)

My Rating: 7/10

Upper Bhavani, Ooty

Much like the previous evening, most of our day 2 morning was spent trying to figure out where we could next go. After getting turned down from officials from a couple of places we headed towards Upper Bhavani. Upper Bhavani is a dam built over the Bhavani Lake. It is located apparently at 7470 feet above MSL. The 20+km ride from Avalanche/Emerald Lake to Upper Bhavani took much longer than usual. I'm more than sure we lost our way somewhere and took a roundabout route. My co-travelers though refuse to buy that theory. Instead of the 20kms I'm pretty sure we travelled at least 40kms. The argument is still unresolved.

So, after much travelling we reached the gates of Tamil Nadu Electricity Board owned Upper Bhavani Dam. After paying Rs.50 to a drunken policeman a.k.a guard we gained access to the Dam premises. With paucity of time we had no choice but to rush to the dam, absorb the sights and head back. I can bet that on a different day of a different season, Upper Bhavani will offer breathtaking views. But this was not the day. With nothing much to do and not wanting to get caught in the wrong side of the Bandipur forests before the gate closes for the night, we headed back to Ooty and subsequently to Bangalore. Thus ended another semi-disappointing Ooty trip.

Getting-there: Upper Bhavani is 60 kms from Ooty.

Must-Do: Ogle at the green sea of tea gardens.

Must-Don't: Visit during summer

My Rating: 4/10

Emerald Lake, Ooty

With Pykara Lake and Glenmorgan done and dusted with, it was time to make our beds for the night. Hotel accommodation was something we have not even considered as a Plan B. The primary purpose of this trip was to camp in the wilderness of Ooty. But this task seemed harder to implement than thought. Apparently, one needed to obtain permission from the Forest Department to camp in the wilderness. And whomever we asked we were told that no permissions were given to camp near the lakes for fear of wild animals et al.

With a thin ray of hope we approached the Forest officials to obtain permission. But being a long weekend and the lateness in the hour we could contact anyone for the permissions. This was followed by more questioning of the local store owners and hawkers for a safe place to set our camp near any of the lakes for the night. With light and hope fading fast, we had to take a call. We finally decided to go to Lake Emerald and see if we can set a camp without or without permissions. If that was not to be, then we will settle for hotel accommodation somewhere in the area.

And it came to be that we arrived at Emerald in pitch darkness. Except for a bungalow next to the lake, there was no sign of humanity in the immediate vicinity. But before pitching our tent here, we needed to be sure that we will not have any trouble with the authorities or the wild animals. So we asked the people who lived in the bungalow and a few more people further ahead in the next village. Upon enquiry we were told that this place is neither frequented by wild animals nor will there be any objections in setting up a camp here. Armed with this info we pitched our tents here. We were in the process of starting a fire when we heard a man raising a battle-cry from the other end of the lake. He also started using his torch light in our direction whenever we used ours. First we ignored, but his insistenance got a few of us worked up. We weren't sure who or what it was all about. One thing we knew for sure that we did not want to give up this vantage camping point. So if the mystery man was a Forest Official who was trying to shoo us away, then that’s a risk we did not wish to take. To compound our problems a little while later we heard a loud sound, something like a gunshot. Now this really shook us up. The mystery man just turned into a frightening man. Was it really a gunshot we heard? Or do we really want to confirm it was a gunshot? We decided against any adventure and just call it a night sans the campfire and dinner.

I had a rather sleepless night thanks to reverberating gunshot sound and the merciless cold of the Ooty night. At 3AM I abandoned all efforts to catch a decent sleep and slipped out of the tent. To my delight I found that KB was having a similar night as I. We decided to make things right by starting a fire. At 3AM we were sure the mystery man would be fast asleep. But to our horror the moment we got our fire started, the yelling started. Not wanting to risk hearing another gunshot or similar sound we put out the fire and went in search of a different location to start the fire - away from the watchful eyes of our mystery man. We found a comfortable location and started the fire. It was a herculean task to start a fire considering that all the twigs and leaves we collected were dripping wet with the moisture of the early morning. But we persevered and soon we mastered the art of fire making against all odds.

The growling sounds of the stomach called our attention to have food. Since we had all the material resources to cook soup, the two of us worked in that direction and pretty soon we were sipping a hot cuppa soup with the sun rising in the horizon. It was a scene unlike I had ever witnessed in Ooty or any other location. This was the high point of my two trips to Ooty. And probably the "best" memory I will carry in my heart for the years to come.

After the sun was out in its full glory we finally figured out our Mystery man. The man across the lake was just a farmer, who was protecting his farm from possible intruders. So much for all the worries and the sleepless night we went through. But then, the mystery of the gunshot still remains a mystery.....

Getting-there: Emerald and Avalanche Dam is where you should be headed to reach Emerald lake.

Must-Do: Enquire for permissions to camp for the night. Tents, Sleeping bags, Lighter, newspapers and bullet-proof vest  will come in handy.

Must-Don’t: Littering

My Rating: 7/10

Glenmorgan, Ooty

Glenmorgan is what Ooty's not. It is quiet, serene, clean and devoid of tourists. The place gets its name from one of the oldest Tea Estates in the Ooty region. Glenmorgan is also an "electricity" town. There is a tiny and scenic lake at Glenmorgan that acts as the fountainhead for the electricity board that was established here. The lake here is unlike any you will see anywhere in Ooty. It is literally nestled in the lap of the Nilgiris with tea gardens encompassing it. The atmosphere is so serene that it will put your mind and body at ease.

A little ahead from the lake lies a deserted bungalow. A narrow winding path from here will take you to one of the most exciting viewpoints of Ooty. The view from here is absolutely spectacular. From the ranges much higher than where we stand to the deep valley down below, the contrast is quite striking. The color composition is also a distinct feature here. From the green magnificence of nature to the mighty brown ranges to the Azure blue of the sky dotted with the pristine white clouds - its nature at its best.

The winds here are so strong, you can hardly hear the person next to you talking. Apart from this there are (were) two mini architectural wonders here. One, a huge well big enough to swallow Bangalore’s Utility building and two, a cable car that starts here and takes you downhill. Both seem to be out-of-favour now with the authorities and are no longer in operation. The couple of hours we spent here was well worth the time and effort. This is the real Ooty if ever there was one.


Getting-there: Follow the signboards and ask for directions.

Must-Do: Find the deserted bungalow and get to the viewpoint. The Viewpoint is also accessible from the power plant.
Must-Don’t: Photography near the power plant.


My Rating: 6/10

Pykara Lake, Ooty

They say life is all about second chances. Who wouldn't like to wipe their slate clean and make a fresh start? But the harsh reality is that despite these second chances, life sometimes refuses to correct its course and we end up making the same mistakes all over again.

Almost 3 years ago I swore to myself that I would never go back to Ooty. I had started then that Ooty is well past its sell-by date. The lack of proper transportation, the trash-littered streets and lakes and all the overcrowding in these tiny little pockets of hamlets has taken away the colonial charm of this once sleepy town. But when an offer was made to wander in the mystic meadows of the Scottish Trails I bit the bullet and succumbed to the temptation. The pictures and experiences portrayed in various blogs seemed to good to be true and had to be experienced. The bad memories of the previous visit had to be erased and a rosy picture to replace it. But alas, it was not to be so.

What started off as a Scottish Trail transformed into a location-hopping trip much like my previous trip. The downside of going location-hopping in Ooty is that too much time is wasted in just getting to the place, what with all the uphill/downhill drive along the winding Ghat roads stretching the travel time from point A to point B. To top it all, our timing wasn’t that great either. After crossing a rather misty Bandipur and Madhumalai Forest (coming from Bangalore) we stopped at the Indian Coffee House in Gudalur and had a sumptuous breakfast. A few enquiries later, we were headed to Pykara Lake or as the signboards say - Pykara Boat Houses. And thus begins the saga of catastrophic disappointments.

So Pykara Lake is where a tourist can take a few pictures of the locale and maybe go for a ride in one of the boats and then head to some place more interesting. There's nothing very spectacular about the view either that will prompt you to stay long than half an hour at this place. To add to our woes, with the approaching summer, there wasn't much of a green cover to make the view scenic.


Getting there: Pykara Boat House is about 11 kms from Ooty on the Ooty-Coimbatore Highway.

Must-Do: Avoid it if you boating is not your poison.
Must-Don’t: Littering


My Rating: 3/10