Mullayangiri, Chikmagalur.

On the way to Mullayangiri via Muthodi

Day 2 in Chikmagalur had a sedate start. Though we had planned to leave early in the morning to Muthodi Wildlife Sanctuary, couldn't execute it to the dot. Breakfast was at the renowned New Town Canteen. If you google New Town Canteen, you would see umpteen recomendations to have the Butter Masala Dosas here. The recommendations stand in good stead with the Dosas made here. New Town Canteen is the MTR of Chikmagalur. In fact, there were some in the group that vouched for the fact that New Town Canteen served better Dosas than MTR. But don't take our word for it and check out for yourself.

After having two Masala Dosas dripping with butter, we faced a difficult task of bundling into our SUV and stay put till we reached Muthodi Wildlife Sanctuary. Our excitement to see some wildlife was nipped in the bud when we heard from the Forest Officer that the Safaris were suspended owing to heavy rains and bad terrain. But our dissapointment was partially wiped out by the amiable Officer who gave us an insight into the whole Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, the Tiger Conservation Project, notable species native to the Muthodi/Bhadra Sactuaries among others.

From inside the cave.



He also suggested us to take a different route through the forest to reach Mullayangiri, for its breathtaking beauty. And breathtaking indeed it was. For the seond time in as many days, we were left gasping for breath looking at the lush green cover and mountain ranges as far as the eye can see. Luckily, we did not encounter a single tourist vehicle along this route, allowing us to stop and stare wherever we wished.



Mullayangiri Temple.



Mullayangiri has been well covered in this Nov 2010 blog. An addition to that is an underground cave below the temple. Not an extensive cave, but well worth the visit. Get ready to soil your clothes if you decide to enter this cave.

Hebbe Falls, Chikmagalur

To read up on Hebbe Falls please visit my blog post entered in Nov 2010. There was hardly any change in the whole Hebbe Falls experience, except this time there were six different people joining the ride. We learnt that the Falls lies in the property of a Coffee Estate owner who has refused to hand it over to the State Tourism Department. This has proved to be a blessing in disguise for nature lovers, as the place still retains most of its pristine beauty. This also means there were no petty shops selling chips and water bottles which will contribute to polluting the place. It continues to be one of the best maintained waterfalls I've seen till date. Even though we did spot some trash thrown by a family who thought it to be a great idea to have their lunch enjoying the view of the falls and then trash the place when they leave!!!

I wonder what kind of parents they are to teach their kids to disregard and destroy nature, which they have come to visit and enjoy? What can be more shameful than that? And then of course there are the hooligans who come to such places to get "high". The worst part is that they throw these (broken) alchohol bottles right there bringing grave danger to the revellers. Well enough of irresponsible-traveller-bashing. Here are a few new pics from Hebbe Falls to treat your eyes.

Kemmangundi, Chikmagalur

Garden near Raj Bhavan

Eight months ago, I had undertaken a trip to Chikmagalur which on retrospect was the third best trip of my life. So when the opportunity beckoned to partake in another Chikmagalur trip, this time with near strangers, I did not think twice. The fact that the "team" were all like-minded people with interests in Travel, Photography and Nature appreciation, made the decision a no-brainer.

Shanti Falls

It was half past 11 PM when we left Bangalore behind and on to Tumkur Road. Sometime during my sleep I entered a dream. The misty environs, the cool crisp air, the lush green cover, the smell of earth and everything good made me not want to wake up from the dream. But it was not to be, since I realised it was not a dream and I had indeed woken up into the cradle of mother earth. I could indeed see the mist, feel the cool air, smell the damp earth, taste the dew drops and hear the crickets chirping. Where else can you find a place close to Bangalore that can stimulate all your senses but Chikmagalur?

Kemmangundi was in our sights as the first stop. But with locales that can make you stop every minute of the way that was not to be. We stopped at the sound of waterfalls. Yes, we heard it first before we saw it. Dawn hadn't broken into Chikmagalur yet and the 3 metre visibilty meant we heard the falls rather than see it. The visibility was so poor, two of the entry-level DSLRs failed to capture the spectacle. Anticipating better things ahead, we moved on. In the drive up the hill, we witnessed many water streams criss-crossing our way.

At the break of dawn we alighted at Kemmangundi. During all the photoshooting of the environment, the gang got split up, thanks to incorrect infomation from the people there. Z Point was our proposed destination, but my gang ended up at Raj Bhavan. Raj Bhavan in itself offers good views not withstanding the mist.

With some help and lot more asking-around, we headed towards Z Point. Kemmangundi literally translates to "A Place With Red Soil". Now I couldn't vouch for that fact because all I see is green. It was as if a mammoth green carpet was spread across all "creation". The approximately 4 km walk to the vantage Z Point is sprinkled with magnificient views of the Baba Budangiri Ranges. To complete the visual splendour is Shanti Falls. This fresh water source on the way to the top quenches your thirst like nothing can. The closer you get to Z Point, the harder it gets to breathe - not out of exhaustion, rather for the breathtaking beauty of the place. It is so overwhelming that you wish you had never come here, for saying goodbye to this place is a difficult task. I had missed Z Point the last time I had been to Chikmagalur, but I guess I could not have seen it at a better time than this.

Z Point

 

Getting-there: 53 kms from Chikmagalur. Hiring a car will be a better (only?) option, unless you have your own transport.

 

Must-Do: Get there as early in the morning as possible. Watching sunrise is not an option, because of the fog. But the fog adds to the beauty of the place, early in the morning. Carry sufficient water for at least a one hour trek. Check out both Raj Bhavan viewpoint and Z Point. Also check out Rock Garden on the way to Z Point.

 

Must-Don't: If you are carrying water bottles with you, make sure you bring it back with you to base camp. Please don't litter this paradise.

 

My Rating: 9/10.

Kotilingeshwara Temple, Kolar



The only picture I took... from the outside.

After an energy sapping trek to Anthargange, we were back on the road, towards Kotilingeshwara Temple. Tired and thirsty we entered the first hotel we saw at Bethamangala. Though shabby-looking, we ate whatever was on the menu. The intake of food finally lifted our spirits for the road ahead. The Kotilingeshwara Temple (here on referred to as KT… yes I’m that lazy) resides in a little village called Kammasandra. It is about 6 kms from famous erstwhile Kolar Gold Fields (KGF).

Now, KT is famous for two things – One crore Shivalingas and the world’s tallest Shivalinga, standing at 108 feet. KT is spread across 15 across and dotted with Shivalingas of every imaginable size and shape, so much so that you doubt if it will be qualified to be called as a “shivalinga”. Inside KT you can also find eleven temples devoted to different deities.

But despite having so many “attractions”, this is one temple I would never come back to or even recommend to others to visit. Reasons? Here are a few:

- The KT is highly commercialized. Entry fee to the temple is Rs 10. Cameras are charged Rs.100!!! And yet there are instructions written all over the temple campus saying “Photography Prohibited”. I didn’t even bother carrying my camera!

- The priests of the eleven temples can easily give the fish-market sellers a run for their money. They literally stand outside the temple asking to devotees to walk-into their temple and of course get an “Aarthi” done. This will of course benefit the Priests in a wicked way. We didn’t bother to enter any of the remaining 10 temples!

- Inside the temple complex there are umpteen number of stores, selling everything from cool-drinks to toys to slippers to music CDs. All have their own blaring loudspeakers and hawkers who want your attention, time and money.

- If you feel, the temple authorities, priests and shopkeepers are all after your money, wait till you come across the beggars! That’s right, beggars right inside the temple!

- Oh, and did I miss to mention the dogs and their kin?

- None of the temples are aesthetically done. Well, almost all structures lack any kind of symmetry. Even the 108 Ft Shivalinga has been clumsily built. In fact it can easily be mistaken for badly-done commercial complex.

- Almost all of the 1-crore lingas are badly maintained. And a majority of them lie on the ground and take abuse from visitors and nature in equal measure.

- The Basava (Nandi) in front of the 108 Ft Linga looks utterly malnourished. Ok, I guess I’m going overboard, but then that’s what it is. You don’t get to feel the devotion of being in a temple, right from the time you step foot here.

The perceptions of KT might vary from person to person. And this is just the way I saw KT. I didn’t feel blessed coming to this temple, nor did I get to watch any work of marvel. The only take-away from this trip was that I could strike-out one more item from my must-see list.

Getting-there: 6 kms from KGF and couple of kms from Bethamangala.

Must-Do: Avoid visiting, if you can.
Must-Don’t: Carrying a camera inside. It’s not really worth spending Rs 100.

My Rating: 2/10.

Kolaramma Temple, Kolar.

The Kolaramma Temple is only three blocks from Someshwara Temple. Kolaramma is the presiding deity of Kolar town. So it’s no wonder that this temple is a prominent one in this town. The temple was built by the Cholas. It has two shrines in Dravidian style of Architecture. The main temple faces east whereas the larger shrine faces north and they share a common entrance. The Saptamataras is worshipped in one shrine and Goddess Durga in the other.

The Scorpion Goddess Chelamma is also worshipped here. It is believed that by offering prayers to Chelamma, they will be guarded by Scorpion bites. The most interesting part about this temple that inspired me to drive down from Bangalore is the presence of the Kolaramma Hundi (which accepts coins from devotees). Right next to the Chelamma is a small opening in the floor that acts as a Hundi. The Hundi is believed to be a huge well dug into the earth. On an extremely quiet day you might actually hear the clicking sound of the coin falling into the well, which has been accumulating millions and millions of coins over hundreds of years. We however, could hear only a faint sound a split second after we dropped it.
There’s also a nice lawn and garden maintained around the temple for you sit and relax in the peaceful atmosphere of a sleepy town. It is a must-visit place if you are in Kolar along with Someshwara temple and Anthargange – where we were headed next.

Getting-there: About three blocks from Someshwara Temple.

Maps: From Bangalore.

Must-Do: Drop a coin into the Hundi when (and if) you have a deafening silence around you.

Must-Don’t: Destroying the serenity and up-keep of the temple and its monuments.

My Rating: 5/10