Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Shivagange, Bangalore

It’s a brand new year. And with a new year comes new hopes and a fresh beginning. But when it comes to traveling, every journey is a new beginning - a fresh start. The destination may or may not be new, but it’s a new beginning nevertheless. My latest weekend getaway had something new about it too, for it was the first time I was take a trip to Tumkur district of Karnataka. Shivagange or Shivaganga was my object of fascination in this latest trip.


Shivaganga is roughly about 60 kms from Bangalore, depending upon where exactly you stay. Considering the freezing climate we left home at 6:30 AM (half an hour late compared to our usual time) and by the time we reach Jallahalli I was already cursing myself for starting so late. The ride from Yeshvantpur to Nelamangala was a real nightmare, what with all the traffic, bad roads and construction work on the elevated highway. By the time we stopped over for breakfast at Hotel Agarwal (cant remember the exact name), I had decided to not come towards Tumkur until the Elevated Highway is ready. But after the super delicious breakfast I was ready to come and eat there if not anything else. Yes, the breakfast here is to die for. Do not forget to try the Khara Baath. After a much satisfying and invigorating breakfast we were back on the road. Right after you cross the toll-gate till the foot hills of Shivagange the roads are a biker’s paradise.

Shivagange is a huge hill rising up to 1368m. It is also famous for religious reasons…yes there always has to be a temple on every hill top. Gangadhareshwara is the presiding deity here. Other (religious) attractions include the Olakala Teertha, Nandi Statue(s) and Patala Gange.

After parking our bikes right outside the temple, and giving ourselves a good stretch, we gazed at the monster ahead of us - 1368m of almost vertical climb to the cloud-covered peak. Luckily, footwear is allowed for the climb except at places of worship. But unlike us, most were doing the whole trek on foot, which made us look a little sinful. But then who cares, after all I was wearing my brand new Woodlands trekking shoes and was more concerned about the safety of my new shoes than the sinful feeling of wearing footwear “near” the place of worship.

The first stop after climbing some 50 odd steps is the Gangadhareshwara Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is believed that performing an abhisheka with ghee turns the ghee into butter. There is also tunnel in this temple that is believed to lead to the Gavi Gangadhareshwara temple in Bangalore. Whether, somebody has undertaken the task of verifying this claim, I cannot be sure. But apparently the tunnel is closed from both ends for safety reasons.

Climb further for about half an hour and you reach Olakala Teertha. Here in this cave temple one would find a small hole-in-the-stone which has a natural spring water source. It is believed that only pious people would be able to touch this water. This also translates into the fact that if you are a tall person with long arms then you are pious :)

Another half hour climb and you reach a relatively new shiv-parvathi idol in glistening white. From here you would get your first good look at the highest peak in Shivagange. We were already huffing and puffing by the time we reach shiv-parvathi and to make matters worse, the next stretch ahead of us was one vertical climb. The rock-carved steps, the rusty rickety railings and in some cases absolutely no steps, makes the climb very treacherous. It is also a physically demanding and absolutely exhilarating experience. After a monkey had confiscated us of our water bottle and emptied its contents, were dependent on lassi’s available at the numerous shacks along the way. During our climb we found a couple of boys carrying water from the foothills to the peak. Curious, we asked them about their daily routine. Their answer shot our brains through our eyeballs. These guys apparently make 10-15 trips per day depending on the demand and get paid Rs. 20 per trip. That’s right 10-15 a day, and sometimes even 20! They definitely have one of the toughest jobs in the world. Had somebody asked me to do a second trip that day, they would have witnessed a Houdini’s act in front of their own eyes.

Two hours, nine lassis’, one lemonade and one bottle of water later we were standing next to the stone carved Nandi. The cool windy breeze here seemed to take away with it every last bit of exhaustion from our body. We no longer remembered to complain about the heat, the exhaustion and tingling sensation in the ankle. We were totally at peace with the gatekeeper of Shiva’s abode. Due to space constraints we could not stake our claim to enjoy a few peaceful moments and had to give way to other devotees.

A little further, there were two more temples and what looks like a runway for fight planes from a warship. A relaxed half hour here and we made our way down. Surprisingly the descent was way too quicker than expected. On the way back, we came across Patala Gange. Here we found a natural spring water source. A priest stationed here gave this spring water as teertha as well as jug-fulls to quench everyone’s thirst. The priest tells us that the spring water level in this cave never changed over the past 60 years – no matter how much you draw out of it. It is believed that the Holy Ganga of the north is the source of this water. A little hard to believe, but that’s the way it is being believed.

Another belief is that the spring water here has some connection to the spring water source of Anthargange. Submerged in this water are the 9 Jyothirlingas, one Vinayaka and one Subramaneshwara. The priest also told us that come Ugadi 2010 and these stone idols would be moved to a new abode near the newly sculpted shiv-parvathi.

With a heady dose of spirituality and trekking we rushed back to Bangalore for a sinful indulgence of Hyderabadi Biryani – our prize for conquering yet another “betta”.


Getting-there: NH4 all the way till Dobbaspet and then a left detour for 6 kms.

Must-Do: Check out Olakala Teertha and Patala Gange. Keep yourself hydrated. Carry absolutely no baggage as they will either be confiscated by the monkey or will impede your progress. No need to carry water bottles too and there are many shacks along the way.

Must-Don’t: Littering. Coming with kids as it could prove dangerous.


My Rating: 6/10.

Thursday, December 31, 2009

Images of 2009

Jew's Street, Fort Kochi.


Fort Saint Angelo, Kannur.


Sunset at Payyambalam Beach, Kannur.


Pazhassi Dam, Kannur.

Muzhapilangad Beach, Kannur.


Bekal Fort, Kasargod.


Katteri Falls, Ooty.

Pykara Falls, Ooty.

Catherine's Falls, Coonoor.


Gokarna Beach, Gokarna.


Kudle Beach, Gokarna.


Half Moon Beach, Gokarna.


Om Beach, Gokarna.


Hogennakkal Falls, Tamil Nadu - Karnataka Border.


Shivanasamudram, Mysore.


Anthargange, Kolar.

Manchinbele Dam, Bangalore.


Mekedaatu, Bangalore.


Chunchi Falls, Bangalore.


Savanadurga, Bangalore.


Kanva Reservoir, Bangalore.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Om-Half Moon-Paradise Beach Trek, Gokarna.

We started Day 2 watching an invisible sun rise at Gokarna Town Beach, followed by breakfast (Hotel Nisarga) at the very same beach watching the fishing boats and the odd dolphin. From there we walked to our-now-favourite Kudle beach, spent a couple of hours and from there we kept walking to Om beach. The phoren-ers had given us the exact path to take to Om beach and also told us about markings on the ground which lead to Om beach. They also warned us that the rickshawallahs would try to mislead us by saying that we must take the rickshaw to Om beach. As it turned out, we dint even need the markers on the ground as there were enough people walking towards Om beach.

It took us about 20 minutes to reach Om beach. A somewhat demanding climb in the sun, I must say. As expected the beach is in the shape of an Om or more aptly the shape of 3. Unfortunately, Om beach does not have the same appeal as Kudle Beach, but at least looks a tad better than Gokarna Town Beach. It was way too hot for us to even think of venturing into the waters. From Om you could take a ferry to Half Moon and Paradise Beaches. It’s an expensive affair though. Initially the boatsmen demanded Rs. 500 for a roundtrip for a person. After bargaining, we decided to take a one way ferry for Rs. 100 each. The plan was to walk back from Paradise to Om and then back to Kudle and finally to Gokarna. A tough ask, but an exciting one.

The ride to Paradise was pretty much uneventful and short except for some Dolphin-spotting on the way. Ten minutes later we were at Paradise Beach – if you can call it a beach in the first place! Paradise Beach could be compared to a small Oasis in the middle of great Desert. The shore at Paradise beach cannot accommodate more than 25 people at any time. But of course there are at least four shacks that provide food here!!.

After buying some soft drinks and Water Bottles to keep us hydrated we started walking back – towards Half Moon Beach. The trek up till Half Moon is very exciting with lots of rocks of all shapes and sizes and all that at mostly sea-level. The key to keep going on the right path is to stick to the well-trodden path. 15 minutes later we were at Half Moon Beach. If Kudle beach was breath-taking, then Half Moon is a killer. Very quiet and serene and hardly crowded. We found not more than five tourists in the more than three hours we spent there.

Half Moon is truly a paradise of a beach. After a relaxed lunch we hesitantly decided to continue our journey back, since we wanted to be in time for the sunset at Kudle which was breathtaking the previous evening. The path to Om climbs higher from Half Moon, which results in some breath-taking view of the sea. The whole path is right along the edge of the cliff, with absolutely no safety barrier. One wrong step and it’s an open invitation to the Abyss.

Thirty more minutes of breathtaking (literally and visually) walk and we were at Om beach. By now we so eager to reach Kudle that we did not even stop to catch a breath at Om and proceeded straight to Kudle and crashed there.


Getting-there: You could walk all the way from Gokarna Town Beach to Om to Half Moon to Paradise and back. It is physically very demanding but worth every drop of sweat. There’s always the ferry if you think you cannot make it.

Must-Do: Keep a full day aside for this trek. Try to start as early in the morning as possible and walk back as late as possible before getting dark.

Must-Don’t: Saying Yes to the outrageous prices quoted by the boatsmen for the ferrying. Littering.

My Rating: 8.5/10. (I’d give a 9/10 for Half Moon Beach too)

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Kudle Beach, Gokarna.

Kudle is a must-visit beach if you are in Gokarna. Surprisingly, this beach has been left virtually untouched by the locals and the Indian tourists as a result of which your Kudle-experience will be one that will remain etched in your minds till the day you leave this earth.

In the innumerable hours we spent at Kudle over two days, we never once noticed another fellow Indian tourist. The place was full of foreign tourists from various parts of the world. There was also the hippy angle to these tourists. Some of whom have been here for months together. You could see these tourists engrossed in their own world enjoying the sun, sand and the sea. If someone is occupied with a book, someone else is pouring over some assignment sheets, while someone else is practicing Yoga or Tai Chi or juggling clubs. There were also those playing a game resembling Table Tennis without the table, and few others building a sand castle. And if they happened to get bored of their respective activities they go for a swim or run along the beach or go beach trekking or walk about the temple town of Gokarna. But then Kudle beach is just the kind of place where you can spend long hours without a care in the world. I wonder why Kudle beach was not named as Paradise Beach!

So, for once I’ll shut the hell up and let the pictures to the talking.


Getting-there: From the Gokarna Town Beach walk to the left, climb the hill past the temple, across the plateau, past a couple of yoga centers and finally descend into Kudle Beach. When in doubt ask any foreigner.

Must-Do: Spend long hours at the beach doing nothing. Watch the beautiful sunset and stay at any of the beachside cafĂ©’s.

Must-Don’t: You already know that by now, don’t ya?

My Rating: 9/10

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Gokarna Town Beach, Gokarna

The Gokarn(a) Town Beach is like any other popular beach in India – crowded, trashy and noisy. It is also a very big one, something in excess of 5km. It had been seven months since I had last been in a beach and was desperate to embrace it and take a splash. Within a few moments we were in the salty waters splashing at each other like nine-year-olds. Once the initial childish excitement subsided, we took a walk along the beach like grown-ups with the waves hitting our feet. We also caught a fishing boat which returned with a decent catch. Apart from the single point entry of the beach, the rest of it is pretty much deserted, with the odd European taking his midday or evening stroll, depending on the time of the day. For some unfathomable reason all Indian tourists who came to the beach, walked in and around the half km stretch near the entrance and then walked/drove back to wherever they came from. None thought it wise to take a walk or see the remaining parts of the beach. But thanks to that, it was much quieter in the other parts of the beach.

But we were not so lucky either. Over the course of the next two days we saw activities in the beach that disgusted us. Its really a shame that some people do not have the minimum decency to refrain from doing such uncivilized acts. I was never more filled with rage than now at seeing people trashing a truly beautiful place. And in true Indian administration style, there is nobody to stop and prevent such activities.

One more thing that one would notice about Gokarn is that its infested with foreign tourists. Their accent suggested that most of them are from Europe and other eastern European nations. From the looks of it, the Uttara Kannada Coastal Belt is the new Goa. Considering that Goa is a mere 2 hr drive from Gokarn, this comes as no surprise. One would also many Bohemian stores selling all things hippy. All in all, not a great place to linger around for long!

Getting-there: Its a less than 2 km walk from the Gokarna Bus Stand.
Must-Do: Shop for some beachwear and some bohemian stuff. Have food at the beachside cafes.
Must-Dont: Contribute to the trash.

My Rating: 5/10. (The low-rating for a beach speaks volumes of its trashiness)