Anthargange, Bangalore.

The name Kolar evokes in the minds of many, nothing but the images of the famed Gold Mines, which by the way is now shut. Even though the Kolar Gold Fields (a.k.a KGF) are now abandoned, this district of Karnataka is by all means still a gold mine. A gold mine for the ever-wandering tourist. A gold mine for the avid devotee. A gold mine for scholarly archeologist. My R&D into Kolar yielded a long list of places-to-visit. Ironically, most of these places are temples and temples are, as a principle something that I avoid while on trips. But, given the nature and significance of the temples, I was ready to make an exception. Foremost on the list was Anthargange, which also happens to be the closest to Bangalore. Then there are places/temples with mythological significance. There are also these ancient temples from our country’s glorious past. Temples built by the Cholas and the Chalukyas. Add to that there’s the Kotilingeshwara – the one crore shivlinga temple and the Chikka Tirupathi.

The plan was to first get to Anthargange, and IF the body permits, to move on to the other temples. I said IF, because Anthargange has a good vertical trekking trail on offer. We left for Kolar at 7 in the morning and hit the Old Madras Road. The route is very straight forward. Once you take the Old Madras Road, you get off it only at Kolar, which is roughly about 65 kms. There’s a road sign which tells where you take the left turn to Anthargange. From the highway it’s a mere 5 kms to Anthargange.

The temple at Anthargange is famous for its natural spring water source from the rocks believed to be coming from the Ganga of the north. No one really knows the actual source of the water. The source as one can see it is a small crevice from which a steady stream of water flows down into the temple pond. What happens after it flows into pond is something that’s not very delectable to the eye. There are scores of people taking bath (with soap and shampoo), kids jumping into the pool and splashing water all over creation and the like. And right before the water falls into the pond from an elevated platform that looks something like a jump board of a swimming pool, there are hordes of people (not devotees) collecting The Water in water cans and water bottles. From the looks of it, this source of water serves as the drinking water supply (not to mention the bathroom) for the whole of Kolar. I say that because, it looked like the whole of Kolar were there either collecting water in their cans or taking a bath.

Visiting the temple was not our primary motive. It was the hiking that began from the temple. The hike up the hill was challenging especially if you have Asthma. So here were two Asthma sufferers pitted against the mighty rocky terrain of Anthargange. After about an hour or more (we really lost track of time) we were, as we presumed at the top of the hill ranges. And to our surprise we found a village on top of this hill. But no, the villagers here do not have to hike this path every day to reach their home. There is a motorable road one could take to reach here. The hamlet up this hill looked a sleepy one. As we began to wonder what to do next, we found a few (6-7 year old) kids playing in the Raagi fields. So when we asked them what else this place had to offer, the kids replied there were caves further up the hill. Yeah apparently the hill still goes higher.

The kids were now our official guides to explore these mysterious caves. I say mysterious, since I’ve not encountered anything in relation to Caves in my research on Antargange. Now the only problem with this guide-business was that we had five of them. Nobody was ready to let off of an opportunity to earn some money. Though we designated only two of them as our “official guides” the other three tagged along. After a little bit of scheming among the guides, they sent back the youngest and most gullible guide back with a toy as a bribe.

Our guides for the day were an enthusiastic and energetic lot, compared to us lethargic city folks. One of them, from time to time even plucked Guava fruits for us. Pretty sweet – the guava and the guide who offered it. Just like any good guide, they showed everything that could be captured with your lenses. Finally after another hour or more of hiking we reached the so-called-caves. So-called, because these caves were never inhabited. So-called because these caves can never be inhabited, except of course by tiny midgets or seven year old kids. The kids took us deeper and deeper into the rocky formations. The gaps between the stones were so small and our bodies so huge, that many times it seemed impossible to go through. But somehow we went further and further. Most times on all-fours, sometimes contorting our bodies in unimaginable shapes and sometimes sliding down rocks like on a slide in a playground. And then finally we found a crevice between two rocks where we just could not go. It was so narrow that we got stuck after just a couple of kids. But the silly kids were so confident that we could cross, that my co-traveler tried and almost dislocated his nose when her tried to keep his face straight.

The kids then showed us a different path for the exit. And by the time we got out, I had a couple of bruises on my elbows and knees and even managed to twist my shoulder again (as a result of an accident couple of years back). But we were never more glad to be finally out. That place there, could kill a claustrophobic.

The way back was pretty uneventful except for the continuous chatter of the kids, and their stories. They told us quite a number of stories, but after knowing eagerness to talk bull, I wouldn’t put any of those guide-stories here. After tipping out little guides (all of them) at their village (Paparajanahalli), we started to make our way down to Antargange. But soon we realized that folly of our intitial misconceptions of this sleepy hamlet. The place was suddenly hip and happening - and how. There we found an agricultural well where about forty young men and kids were assembled around the well and splashing themselves into it. On the main road though there was a large gathering of young men who had some kind of drag-racing-cum-wheeling competition going on. Next to the local tea-stall hangout place was a large swing suspended from a tree where again young men were swinging away to unbelievable heights.

Unable to believe this sudden transformation of the place we walked back to Antargange. Now with most of the devotees gone, the temple was quieter on the devotional front but noisier on the recreational front. It was all fun and frolic for the kids and men who came to the temple for their afternoon swim in the swimming pool (ex-temple-pond). However there was no variation in the number of people carrying the spring water back to their homes or businesses where they sold the water. We took this opportunity to have a closer look at the Fountainhead of the water. Surprisingly the stream just kept coming from an elevated platform, between two tiny Nandi statues. We filled out bottle with this stream and to our surprise, it tasted as pure as a natural spring water can be. It was a real life saver for our parched throats. Somewhat rejuvenated by the generous amount of stream water we made our way back to so-called mineral water haven of Bangalore.

Getting-there: Old Madras Road -> Left at Kolar 65 kms later -> Left before Bus Stand.


Must-Do: Keep yourself hydrated. Taste the natural spring. Explore the Caves - if possible.

Must-Dont: Carrying excessive baggage. Even backpacks and waterbottles and coats are a liability while exploring the caves. Littering, bathing and the like. Claustrophobics should stay away from the caves.


Road Report: Good Roads after T.G.E (or a similar combination of alphabets) Extension. But too many diversions, because of the laying of the 4-lane roads.

Food: Kamat Upachar, 10 kms before Kolar - A must!!!


My Rating: 6.5/10

Don’t Lose Your Mind, Lose your weight - A Must Read.

So what motivated a to-be-30-year-old 68 kg guy with a more-than-faint sign of prosperity to pick up the book Don’t Lose Your Mind, Lose your weight? Well, firstly it was the word-of-mouth publicity it received. I’ve heard people about this book on more than a couple of instances. Secondly, it was written by the dietician behind the now-famous size zero of Kareena Kapoor. Thirdly, and most importantly the book actually busts many a myth dealing with the diet-culture, thereby offering a whole new dimension to eating-right, rather than just being another mashed-up offering from the Atkins stable.

Rujuta Diwekar is no run-off-the-mill dietician. She's highly qualified in her line of work. She has worked with many famous personalities/celebrities like Kareena, Saif, Sonali, Anil Ambani et al.

The book is easily available at every bookstore worth its paper at a reasonable rate (so you don’t have to wait for the footpath-release). I got mine from Landmark in Forum.

Thankfully the book does not disappoint you. The first few chapters are all about busting the myths which have by now become a way of life for many. Every legend busted is supported with a lot of scientific explanation for the same. Rujuta goes about creating an awareness of what goes behind the eating process, something that we just don’t bother to look into. The book actually is an expedition to explore your body. About how our body tries to communicate with us, and how our mind fails to establish contact in return. When it comes to eating we often listen to our mind but seldom to our stomach. Rujuta stresses on the need to listen to your stomach to lead a healthy life.

What’s commendable about the author is that, she doesn’t quarantine any food as bad - as long as they are natural of course. Processed foods and deep-fried items are a big no-no. But then there are cheat codes to beat the system. Example, one Pizza slice a month for the Pizza freaks and stuff like that. Similarly no vegetable is bad (read fat-inducing) as long as they are taken in the right quantities at the right time of the day in the right format.

What makes the book interesting is the numerous co-relations of our eating habits to real life examples to drive the point home. The entire book revolves around the four main principles of eating which forms the cornerstone of a healthy lifestyle. I will not mention them here, because if taken out of context, it could be totally misconstrued. Moreover this book is one for the keeps. Hence go to your nearest bookstore and get your own copy. It’s your ticket to a healthy lifestyle.

My Rating: 7/10

Savanadurga, Bangalore.

It had been almost a month since I hit the road and I was beginning to develop an itchy feet. Bad health and family commitments had kept me off road all this while. So the first chance I got, I was away. I announced to my partners-in-crime that this weekend was a biking and trekking getaway. 60 kms of biking and 4050 ft of vertical trekking. The Destination – Savanadurga. As I stepped out of the house at 6 in the morning and saw the steady drizzle coming down, I thought about all the blogs I read by those who have vanquished this mighty giant of a hill. Every blog I read warned of the danger surrounding the terrain during the rains. Now looking at the drizzle I must say I was elated. Yes, you heard me. Elated. I mean, what fun is an adventure without some danger!

The Savanadurga is 14 kms from the Manchanbele Dam. There are two routes to reach Savanadurga. The first and fastest being taking the Magadi Road. The second and highly recommended is the Dodda Alada Mara-Manchanbele Dam route. I recommend the later because the 14 km stretch road leading from MD to Savanadurga is simply exhilarating. No, Im not talking about the quality of the road, but the beauty of the surroundings. Immediately after the dam is a village and after that you enter a forest reserve. The drive through the forest makes the slow-paced and time-consuming drive worth its weight in gold. After entering the reserve I could not but take my helmet away to breathe-in the fresh air. It’s a totally invigorating experience. Not for miles and miles away from Bangalore can one breathe such fresh air. It sure can rejuvenate your body to no end.

One more reason why you need to take this route is the umpteen number of hamlets you will cross. These are places where time stood still. It also brings back memories from my own childhood - memories of the humble village I’ve come from. Inhabitants here stare at you, like you’ve come from outer space.

The final 4km stretch – where all you do is circumvent the hills - to the foot of Savanadurga is a biker’s nightmare. Back-breaking is an understatement in this road - or what is left of it.

Just before you reach the foot hills you go past an ancient Nandi Temple (yes, there has to be a temple wherever you go). Outside this temple you will find an equally ancient Stumba and next to it, what looks like a giant swing with two mighty heavy iron chain hanging from the top. Also on the ground next to this giant-swing-like thing you’d find two mighty perfectly-circular boulders with a hole in the centre. Personally I have no clue what this is all about. A few more meters further and you reach ground-zero, where you’ll find a temple…again.

It’s always a good idea to have some coconut water before the long and demanding climb. Keeping yourself hydrated is the key. Traveling light is also a good idea, so we finished whatever water we had and threw away the bottle.

Wikipedia Corner:

Savandurga is a hill 33 km west of Bangalore off the Magadi road. The hill is famous for a temple and is also believed to be among the largest monolith hills in the world. The hill rises to 1226 m above mean sea level and forms a part of the Deccan plateau. It consists of peninsular gneiss, granites, basic dykes and laterites. The Arkavathi river passes nearby through the Thippagondanahalli reservoir and on towards Manchanabele dam. Savandurga is formed by two hills known locally as Karigudda (black hill) and Biligudda (white hill).

The climb to the top not surprisingly is tedious. No amount of yoga or umpteen hours on the treadmill will make the climb a cakewalk. While you are huffing and puffing your way up this monster of a hill, remind yourself to enjoy the breathtakingly scenic view. The silver lining is the Akravathi river winding its way down to the Manchanbele Dam. You could also get a good look at the ISRO Satellite Dishes situated near the dam. Further behind the ISRO you also see the concrete jungle that Bangalore is.

Barely a few feet away from the top of the hill and it started raining. But we were not in the mood to quit the mission after having come this far. Hence we quickly rushed to the top (the final stretch being the most difficult), took a few seconds to catch our breath, one last look at the scenic beauty laid before our eyes and we started our way. Almost immediately we realized the danger all those bloggers were talking about. Yes, it’s very real and very imminent. The slippery wet surface of the hill brought back memories of the day I decided to do a little bit of ice-skating. This is the best time to tell you that, Savanadurga is one real large, bald rock. It’s so bald it can put Pritish Nandy to shame!

We crawled, slipped, slid, skated, fell and sometimes walked our way to the foot of the hill. Getting down the hill was one of the most exhilarating episodes of my life. And it will remain etched in my mind for a long time to come.

Getting-there: Mysore Road -> Left at Raja Rajeshwari Dental College -> Big Banyan Tree -> ISRO -> Manchanbele Dam -> Right at village immediately after the Dam -> Through the Forest -> Right at the T-Junction Main Road.

Must-Do:

• Keep yourself hydrated. Carry a backpack for carrying water and other liquids. Otherwise, there are boys who sell juice at the top of the hill – for DOUBLE the MRP.
• The bag pack will also help in carrying your trash, there-by not littering the place.
• Get your Trekking shoes on – preferably those by Woodland!
• Breathe the fresh air of the forest.

Must-Don’t: Carry things other than a bag pack. You need two free hands along with your legs for the climb.

Road report:

• Mysore Road – Paradise in the city.
• Raja Rajeswari Dental College to ISRO – Good
• ISRO to Manchanbele Dam – Bad.
• Manchanbele to Main Road connecting the Hills – Drivable but narrow.
• Final 4km stretch to the foot of the Hills – Nightmare!

My Rating: 7/10

Kanva Reservoir, Bangalore.

If you are planning to spend a coupla hrs of your lazy Sunday morning on a short long-drive in order to get away from mad concrete jungle of Bangalore and visit a place that is by no standards spectacular, then Kanva Reservoir is the place to be.

Let me reiterate that Kanva Reservoir on the river Kanva, which is a tributary of River Cauvery, is in no way spectacular. So visit this place only if you are running out of options to get away from Bangalore.

The most convenient aspect of visiting Kanva is its proximity to Bangalore and good Mysore Road, which makes the journey worthwhile. Getting to Kanva is pretty simple. Hit the Mysore Road and after crossing Ramnagara, there's the hard-to-miss Kamat Lokaruchi. A kilometer further to the Lokaruchi you need to take a right turn at the gap in the median. 8 kms of half-baked straight road will leave you at Kanva Reservoir. Kanva is a very quiet place, with hardly any visitors. Even the odd Qualis or Tavera that pulls in here, leave in a hurry. Not surprisingly there are no road side make-shift vendors too over here. No wonder the surroundings look a little neater compared to other destinations. Kanva, is one of the only destinations ive been to, where even the monkeys are surprisingly non-existent. Hmm..

The downside about Kanva is the fact that there's nothing you can really do over here. Especially if you belong to the group of people who don't want to get wet while on a long drive. So we just looked around for a spot to sit on and then started shooting pictures all over creation. Tired of clicking pictures we headed back to Bangalore after spending three quarters of hour here.

Oh... I almost forgot.. there's a Purushotthama Thirtha Gavi Cave Temple 3 kms further to Kanva if anybody is interested. Since we were not really the temple-going-types, we decided to give it a skip.

Getting-there: Mysore Road till Kamat Lokaruchi(60 kms) -> another 1km and then right at gap in the median ->9 kms straight road to Kanva.
Must-Do: Eat at Kamat Lokaruchi. Good Food. Check out Janapada Loka.
Must-Dont: Littering. Thankfully the influx of tourists is less and hence its pretty much litter-free. So lets keep it that way.

My Rating: 4/10

Shivanasamudram, Bangalore.

A stubborn cold, a gloomy Bangalore climate, the prospects of heavy showers, the impending back-breaking 125 km ride on a bike, and a eleventh hour drop-out of one of the co-travellers did nothing to stop us from witnessing nature in all its might.
Shivanasamudram is an island town caused due to the splitting of River Cauvery. So our object of interest was the twin waterfalls of Gaganachukki Waterfalls. According to Wikipedia there's a common misconception that the left segment of the twin waterfalls is Gaganachukki and the right segment Bharachukki. Wiki also goes on to say that Bharachukki is a few kms further from here.

But we decided to stop at Gaganachukki for its sheer grandeur. As always we had started early from Bangalore to avoid the mad crowd of motorists and tourists. The total travel time was three hours including a breakfast stop. For breakfast we stopped at Gabbar Singh's very own backyard - Ramnagara. The route to Shivanasamudram is pretty straight forward. Take the Mysore Road out, go past Bidadi, Ramnagar, Channapatnam and reach Maddur. Theres a left deviation off Mysore Road (with enough signboards) to reach Shivanasamudram through Malavalli Village.

Gaganachukki is first big waterfall that Ive witnessed in person. Hence its no surprise that it caught my attention the moment I saw it, and got me mesmerised. It took me quite a while to realise that I had brought a camera with me and I was not taking pictures! Like most water-attractions in Karnataka, the best time to see the Gaganachukki Falls (GF) is the monsoon season - July to October. And we were bang in the middle of a good rainy season in Karnataka. GF does not disappoint in any way.

You can watch the GF from two sides - one with the Darga and the one without it. We first arrived at the non-Darga side. You do get a good bird's eye view of the Falls from this side. The gushing milky waters falling hard on the rocks below causing a smoky water-spray is a sight to behold. There's heavy fencing over here to discourage people from getting close to the Falls. And its there for a good reason too. As the precautionary signboard says "Watch your step, it might be your last". After getting down a few flight of steps to the designated Watchtower, we just spent a few lazy minutes just admiring the water fall.

About half an hour later the steady trickle of large families in Tempo Travellers began and we thought it fit to leave the place. We enquired about going to the other side of the Falls from the local vendors and were told that its some 15 kms away. Though it sounds a little preposterous, it is indeed true. Its really a long and winding road to the other end of GF. While going to the other side we made one stop where the Cauvery almost touches the Main road along which we were travelling. Out here we saw a huge boy-gang who were making preparations for a meal!. Yes they had set up a cooking place, were gathering twigs and branches for the fire, cutting vegetables, posing semi-nude to the cameras, chasing away monkeys et al.

Another 8 kms later we were at the other side of Gaganchukki. As soon as we reached here, we knew we should have come here first. The Falls look more majestic from this side. This is because you see them at close quarters. What's more you can even go dangerously close to the waterfalls. But even before we go there, how can we leave out the monkey talk. Lets rewind to the Madumalai blog where I was busting the myths of "searching" monkeys. Well looks like I spoke too soon. So, I was having plastic bag of leftover boiled peanuts which we bought from the other side of the falls. While holding this plastic bag in hand and being mesmerised by the falls, comes this big fat monkey. He walks with a certain dignity and command, clearly indicating that he's the head of his herd. Even while he's confidently striding towards me with his eyes transfixed on my plastic bag, other chutka-putka monkeys run helter skelter. I knew my peanuts were in danger. But I was equally determined to keep my flock together. I try to hoodwink the giant by hiding the plastic bag under my arm pits. With the monkey at just a scratch away I turned a full 180 degrees to avoid a face-off. But the wily old monkey comes round me for another face-to-face. I turn another 180 degrees to complete a full circle. And again the monkey follows suit. This is one determined and bold monkey. But so was I... err.. I mean bold and courageous...only.

They say that a shepperd apart from tending to his flock also has to fight the wolves if need be. So without being rude and indignant (and also not scared) I try to shoo the monkey. But he doesn't budge. I transfer the plastic bag from my left arm-pit to the right where I felt it would be safer. This only bolstered the beast more. I guess he too realised that I was tough customer and decided to enforce things. Even before I could guess his next move, the beast was on its hind legs. The other two somewhere around my fleshy midriff. Suddenly I realised that the arm-pits was no longer a safe haven. I held the bag in my right hand pointing skywards, confident the monkey cant reach it. But then we are talking THE monkeys. There's no place a monkey cant reach!!! Fearing for the safety of other expensive items on me (camera, cellphones etc) and a feeling of waging a loosing battle I relented and dropped the bag. No the monkey did not scamper to get it fearing it will be snatched by somebody else. It just strolled to the bag and picked it...spoils of war!!!

And then it perched itself on a rock and devoured on the peanuts. As for me, my only disappointment was that I'd indirectly become party to littering a plastic bag. Luckily for the smart monkey, he did not eat the bag.. he just made a hole in it and took out its content.

After this ordeal we went down a trashy trail to reach somewhere midway between the viewpoint and the rock-bottom of the falls. Its a totally amazing experience to watch such crude power of the waters. Nature is the superpower in the real sense of the word. Despite centuries and centuries of human and extra terrestrial exploitation, Nature has come through it all with winning colors. Just as we started to make our way towards the foot of the falls, it started drizzling. Getting caught here in the rains, spelt trouble. We quickly scrambled to top thrice as fast as we had, going down. When the huffing a puffing subsided a wee bit, to our dismay we find the drizzle had stopped and the skies magically cleared. Yeah... that's Nature for ya!!

With no stamina to go down and come back up again, or go to Bharachukki Falls and the prospect of travelling back the 125 kms, we decided to call it a day and drove back to the hustle and bustle of a mad mad city.

Getting-there: Mysore Road till Maddur. Left deviation towards Malavalli Village and follow the signboards. Alternate Route: Kanakapura Road. Right Deviation at Kanakpura, and left at Malavalli.
Must-Do: Check out the Gaganachukki from the Darga side too.
Must-Dont: Carry food items that will eventually be snatched by some monkey. Littering.
Also-Do's: Check out the Ranganatha Temple at Madhyaranga when going to the darga side of Gaganachukki Falls. Apparently the Cauvery in its course splits thrice, only to meet later forming three islands. And at each island there's a Ranganatha Temple. Madhya Ranga is the second among the triad. The Adi Ranga is at Srirangapatna and the Anthya Ranga at Tiruchiu. Also check out the Prasanna Meenakshi Temple close to the Jaganatha Temple.

My Rating: 6.5/10